The eye and ear protection you actually wear is the kind that never leaves the hat
People do not skip safety glasses because they lack a pair. They skip them because the glasses
are in the truck, or on the bench, or tucked away in a pocket with a scratch across one lens. The same goes for
earmuffs. Carrying three separate items creates three separate chances to work without any of them.
This is one shell with the other two already attached. A clear eye shield sits on a hinge beneath the front
brim and drops over your eyes with a single finger. Two earmuff cups are mounted on swing arms at each side and
pivot down over your ears, or swing up clear when you need to hear someone. Put the hat on and
everything you need is already there.
What is actually molded into the shell
When you buy head protection, the rating matters more than a customer comment. Below is the marking,
photographed from the inside of the shell rather than copied from a supplier sheet.
StandardANSI/ISEA Z89.1-2014, molded into the shell
TypeType I — tested for impact to the top of the head
ClassClass C — conductive. No electrical protection at all
ShellHDPE (high-density polyethylene), also molded into the shell
Head range21 in to 24.8 in around (53 to 62.9 cm)
Date wheelsMonth and year of manufacture, molded beside the rating
Class C means this hat offers no protection from electrical contact. The vents in the
crown increase airflow, and they are also the reason the shell cannot act as an electrical insulator —
a vented shell has openings straight through it. If any portion of your work involves live conductors, you
need a Class E hat, which is an unvented product made for that purpose.
Type I is the designation for an impact landing on the crown. It is the common rating for construction,
groundwork, warehousing and general site work in the US. It is not Type II, which covers
off-center and lateral impact. If your risk is a strike from the side, choose a Type II shell.
The eye shield
The lens is marked ANSI Z87+ and 1F CE EN166. The plus is the detail
to watch: under Z87.1, a plain "Z87" lens meets the baseline impact test, and Z87+ is
the high-impact classification. The EN166 marking indicates optical class 1 with an F impact grade.
The shield drops on two pivots under the brim and tucks back up beneath the brim when not in use.
Because it stores inside the shell rather than folding into a case, it does not get sat on, and it does not
get left behind.
It is a shield, not a sealed goggle. The listing has sometimes called these
"goggles" and that term oversells them. This lens arches in front of your face and is open around the
edges. It blocks what flies at you. It will not stop fine airborne dust that drifts in from the side,
and it is not rated as a chemical splash barrier. If you need a face-sealing barrier, use sealed goggles.
The earmuffs, and what we cannot tell you about them
Two cups on sprung swing arms are mounted to a rail on each side of the shell. They swing down over your
ears and back up clear of them, so you can answer a question without removing the hat.
The cups are marked CE 2777 and EN 352-3, the European standard
for earmuffs attached to an industrial safety helmet.
There is no NRR published for these muffs, so we are not going to quote one. In the US,
hearing protection is sold with an EPA-required Noise Reduction Rating on the package, and this product
does not carry that label. The EN 352-3 marking shows the cups were made and tested to a helmet-mounted
earmuff standard; it does not, by itself, state how many decibels they reduce. No one should select
hearing protection for a high-noise task based on a number the seller invented, so we have left it
blank rather than supply one. Use these for general site noise as a convenience, and if you face
sustained high sound levels, choose hearing protection with a published, labeled rating.
Why the full brim, and not a cap
A cap-style hard hat has a peak at the front and nothing elsewhere. A full brim encircles the head.
In practice that delivers three effects: rain runs off behind your collar instead of down it, the sun
is kept off the back of your neck and your ears, and debris knocked loose above you lands on the
brim and rolls off instead of down your shirt.
The trade is extra width. A full brim is broader, and in tight framing or a crawl space it will catch on things
a cap-style shell would clear.
Fit and adjustment
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Ratchet wheel at the back. Thumb it tighter or looser without taking the hat off,
and it works with gloves on.
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Fits 21 in to 24.8 in of head circumference — measure around your forehead,
just above your ears.
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Six-point suspension with a textile cradle, so the load spreads instead of sitting
on one ring.
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Crown vents open and close by pushing the plugs with a thumb.
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Chin strap with a molded chin cup, adjustable, and removable if you do not want it.
About the finishes
Nine to choose from. Six are solid colors — white, black, hi-vis green, orange, red and blue.
The other three are hydro-dipped with a carbon-weave pattern, in white, gray and black.
To be clear about what you are buying: the carbon-look finishes are a printed pattern on the
same HDPE shell. There is no carbon fiber in this helmet. The pattern is cosmetic and the rating
is identical across all nine.
In the box
- One full brim safety helmet, with the eye shield and both earmuffs already fitted
The shield and the muffs are installed as the helmet ships. There is no separate bag of parts and
nothing to assemble.
When this is the wrong hat
We would rather you bought the right thing somewhere else than the wrong thing here.
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Live electrical work. Class C. Get a Class E.
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Side-impact hazards. Type I is a crown rating. Get a Type II.
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Chainsaw and brush cutting. That job wants a mesh visor and hearing protection
chosen on a stated rating, not a clear shield.
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Climbing, rope access, confined space and technical rescue. Those use a retained
climbing-style helmet to a different standard entirely. Despite what this listing used to say, a
full brim Type I hard hat is not rescue equipment.
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Chemical splash. The shield is not sealed to your face.
Looking after it
- Warm water and mild soap. Solvents, gasoline and bleach attack polyethylene.
- Do not drill it, do not paint it, and do not carry it on the parcel shelf of a car — sustained
UV and heat age the shell.
- Replace it after any real impact, even if the shell looks fine, and check the molded date wheels so
you know how old it is.